23
Jan 12

Vintage Kitchens of the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s

1930s: The Steam-lined -Depression Era “Modern Kitchen”

By the 1930’s, the kitchen was being transformed from the old fashioned kitchen to the “Streamlined-Modern Kitchen” with time saving features, better organization and much improved ventilation. The “all-electric kitchen” was promoted in popular magazines with numerous advertisements showing newly designed small and major appliances. Mixers were the homemakers dream now designed with numerous attachments that could sift flour, mix dough, grate cheese, squeeze lemons, whip potatoes, shred, slice and chop vegetables and even sharpen knives. “Depression Green” was the “in” color used on the wooden handles of kitchen utensils, on kitchen cabinets and tables and on kitchen wares. Often accessories were cream and green replacing the white and black look of the previous decades.

Other popular color combinations in the 1930s were Gray and Red or Crimson, Silver and Green, Pearl Pink and Blue, as well as the use of checkered patterns on textiles. Kitchen wares such as canisters and Bread boxes tended to be softly painted with perhaps a simple decal.

In 1935 the National Modernization Bureau was established to promote modernization throughout the country. Manufacturers competed for better designed appliances and kitchen accessories. Color began to enter the kitchens of the thirties and articles in magazines featured decorating tips on color schemes and how to incorporate the kitchen into the rest of the home. Kitchens were no longer work stations but gaining as much attention as the rest of the home. Small and large appliances were available in color and Sears and Montgomery Ward featured colorful kitchen wares and “japanned” accessories such as canister sets, range sets, cake savers, bread boxes and waste baskets.

1940s: The Postwar Colorful Era

The Post War kitchen of the 1940’s began to become family gathering places and now tables and chairs made of chrome bases with enamel, linoleum or plastic tops could be added to a more spacious kitchen which replaced the smaller work centered earlier kitchens. Separate formal dining rooms were being replaced by kitchens that could accommodate the family and guests. The kitchen was becoming a very inviting space and primary colors dominated the interior décor palette. Magazines advertised products for your “Gay Modern Kitchen”. Combinations of red, green and yellow or red and black were popular as well as brightly colored tablecloths, textiles and curtains. Flowers, fruits and Dutch motif were in vogue and found on shelving paper, trim, decals and kitchenwares. Appliances continued to be produced with streamlined designs, rounded corners and smaller proportions. The combination washer/dishwasher was introduced as well as the garbage disposal and freezers for home use.

1950s: The Atomic Era-Pastel Color-Space Age

Dramatic changes would occur in the kitchens of the 1950’s as space age, atomic era designs and materials entered the scene. The fifties kitchen featured plastics, pastel colors such turquoise or aqua, pink and yellow (cottage colors), Formica and chrome kitchen table and chair sets matched formica kitchen counters and were easy to keep clean with messy little ones. After the war there was more time for leisure promoting kitchenware’s and accessories for picnics, barbecues, parties and the home bar.

The introduction of color T.V. in the 1950s brought full color into America’s living rooms where homemakers could now see all the exciting products and appliances available to them. Following World War II, there was a new generation of plastics and time for “gracious living” and entertaining. Kitchens and homes saw the transition from glass, ceramic and tin products to numerous types of plastics which made casual living easier. Melmac and Melamine dishes, Lustro-ware and Tupperware storage accessories and “thermowall” for picnics were a huge success. Vinyl was used for tablecloths, chair covers and furniture and bark cloth with boomerang and abstract shapes was popular. Tablecloths and dishcloths continued to be brightly colored and souvenir textiles were added to the home with tropical, Southwestern and Mexicana themes. Poodles, roosters and designs with kitchen utensils, tea pots and coffee pots decorated potholders, appliance covers and linens. Appliances were built-in and came in fifties colors such as turquoise, soft yellow, pink and copper.

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21
Jan 12

Deer Hunting Tips

It’s that time of year when outdoorsmen feel a certain giddy longing that they don’t feel during the hot summer months. They can feel it coming on stronger like a quickening and can smell it in the crisp clean fall air. It’s a feeling like no other. Like a deeply planted seed rooted completely into your soul. And when this feeling comes around. The big game deer hunting season has arrived!

With a childlike enthusiasm you know it’s now time to dust off your hunting gear. Sharpen you hunting knives, oil down your deer hunting rifle; test your tree climbing equipment and stock up on hunting supplies such as hunting clothes, deer scents and maybe a new grunt call. But before the opening day of the hunting season arrives and it’s time to do the necessary pre hunting rituals that all good experienced hunters always do every year, such as scouting for deer sign, looking for tracks, scrapes, rubs and scant. Finding a good climbing tree stand or ground blind placement can sometimes seam difficult and downright unnerving. You want that perfect spot were you know you will always see the game that you are pursuing. And you want to be able to take the correct actions when the big moment arrives to bag that huge deer of a lifetime. So here are some Supreme Deer Hunting Tips that can help you take that big buck that you have always dreamed of.

Before we begin I would like to tell you a story. A story about myself and why I have written this article. As a young boy I was naturally attracted to nature. My father was really not an outdoorsman. We went fishing at times but never went hunting. As I got older a friend of mine, Bob invited me along with him on a deer hunt. I loved it and I was from that day on, hooked for life! I proceeded to purchase my first deer hunting riffle, a 30.06 Remington. We hunted every single year and he would always harvest a deer. Usually a spike or a four pointer, but I had bigger plans.

I wanted to get those big eight pointers with the nice heavy racks. I proceeded to test every location in every situation I could find. I read and consumed every deer magazines known to man like a mad man. Bob would always say, “Why do read those things? You won’t be able to get big dear like in those magazines”! He couldn’t have been more wrong. He refused to take pointers from any of my books or magazines. Don’t get me wrong, my friend Bob taught me a lot of the basics and good tactics. He was a very good teacher, but at some point I began to get bigger and better bucks than the teacher.

As I read all the magazines and books and I would learn new ideas and strategies. Bob would hunt the open woods and I would hunt the thicker stuff. I started to take nicer and larger bucks each year. And Bob, Well… let’s just say, he has a whole garage full of spikes and four pointers on the walls.

Now even though I learned a lot from those hunting magazines. They never really helped me with some critical things. Stratagies that I had to and had learned in the field. Like spotting that perfect place to put a stand in any hunting location. Or the perfect way to spot a deer and take the shot without ever losing the game. Let’s face it, if you can’t find the perfect spot to hunt from, you will never see deer, see enough deer or get consistently close enough to take deer when you’re hunting. And if you don’t know the correct way to spot, respond and shoot the deer, you are not going to have that huge rack on your wall or venison in the freezer.

I’ve had to learn that the hard way. By years of trial and error. I have decided to put the best advice I have learned out of all those years, brake them down into a few critical tips and provide them here. They may not seem to be much on the surface. But they may be some of the best tips you may ever find.

Deer Hunting Tips for Ground Blind and Deer Stand Placement

How to Hunt Deer: Stand or Ground Blind Placement

I find that most of my friends like to put there stand right smack in the middle of a nice clear woodlot were they can see far and wide. But I disagree. I consistently bag large bucks where there is some thick brush, a winding overgrown stream or swampy land bordering a nice woodlot. Put your deer stand or ground blind facing the open woods with your back to the brush. Be sure to wear some good quality waterproof hunting boots if you are hunting in or near a swampy area or bog. Old big bucks avoid hunters, live longer and are bigger because they are smart and cautious. They tend to stay in or follow the thicker brush or swamp line before, if at all, going out to the open woods to feed. If you are in the open woods, they may get wind of you or spot you before you get the chance to see them first. By hunting border lines of brush or swampy areas you get the chance of spotting him sneaking through or along the line before he can detect danger or inspect the open woods.

Try to hunt in a bottleneck. There are many different kinds of bottlenecks that you may or may not have noticed. They are everywhere, you just have to look carefully and they will become obvious to you. Here are some examples. A long stretch of thicker brush between two woodlots. A small stream or brook that winds between two swamps, large ponds or through the center of open woods. A small stand of cedar trees or pines in the middle of a woodlot. Or something obvious like a nice stretch of woods between two fields (great for bow hunting).

Hunt Saddles. Saddles are an impression between two high ground levels. Deer tend to travel these saddles to remain hidden and inconspicuous. Some examples are low ground between two ridges. A small indentation or the lowest point in the middle of a ridge. Or something as simple as a small gully on flat lands.

Overlooking Small Streams. This is one of my favorite places to hunt. Deer love to walk along or cross small streams. The vegetation is usually slightly thicker, tastier and abundant to the deer since the water gives the plants more nutrients. If you are big game hunting in the upper states were it may be colder during the first few weeks of deer hunting season you can hear the white-tailed deer cross the stream as the thin ice breaks under there hooves. It sounds like a breaking plate glass window in a small quite library. You can hear it a mile away.

Deer Hunting Tips For Taking the Shot and Spotting Deer

How to Hunt Deer: Spotting Deer and Taking the Shot

Always keep your ears open or uncovered as much as possible. Most of the time I will hear the deer before I can even see them.

Look for movement of the deer instead of the whole deer itself. Rather then glassing the entire woods in one slow sweep it best to stare at a specific target for a minute or two such as a log, a branch, a stick or a rock. Then quickly proceed to the next target and so on until you have scanned the entire line of the woods. Then proceed back. If there is game present you will spot there movement from your peripheral vision. Quite, jerky but fast (with long periods between intervals) with minimal movement on your part is always better (have you noticed that all cautious and wild animals do this?). With this technique, I always see the flicker of an ear, tail or hoof long before I actually can see the whole deer or spot one by slowly glassing.

If you see one or more doe’s. Stay put and be patient. Many times there is a buck hot on doe’s trial. You may see a buck anywhere from a few second to an hour after the doe’s have passed. Even if a buck does not follow. You know you have a great hunting location. If there are doe’s in that area then there are always bucks. You may not see him this time, but if you consistently hunt from that location, and see doe’s, then I can promise you that you will see the big bucks eventually.

When you see deer and the adrenalin in your system kicks in don’t panic or make quick movements. Take a couple of deep breaths. Look to see if it has antlers; DO NOT concentrate on the antlers! Just confirm if they are of legal size for your hunting area and concentrate on your shot placement. If you concentrate on where you are going to shoot the animal you be will less likely to get buck fever ( a symptom of a heavy dose of adrenalin such as uncontrolled shaking or nauseousness ) Don’t be the guy on the hunting trip that always says he saw a ten point buck but could not get a shot at the deer. Chances are if he concentrated on the shot placement rather than counting the number of points on the antlers he would have bagged a nice buck instead of having to tell a story about how it got away.

If the deer won’t stop you can whistle or grunt loudly (a loud “baaaa” sound like imitating a sheep should work) aim quickly with you deer hunting rifle but don’t rush. It’s better to shoot accurately rather than wounding or spooking the deer. If you spook or wound the deer, you probably won’t see that buck in that area ever again. Make sure to take the safety off. Nothing is worse than having that perfect shot lined up for a huge buck to find the safety is on and then the deer walks away. Then take the shot. If the deer is just browsing wait for the deer to graze with its head down. Squeeze the trigger slowly rather than jerking the trigger. I find that I get my best shot placements when I don’t anticipate the moment of the shot. I squeeze slowly and the shot rather than anticipated is unexpected.

After the shot make a mental note of were the deer was standing when hit and the last location seen. This is very important. It will give you an indication of which possible directions to look for the deer. Especially if the blood trail ends and you need to revert to tracking the deer. Always wait at least one half hour after the shot before leaving your blind or stand to approach or track the deer. Be carful when approaching a downed deer or any other game. Always approach from the back side of the animal. Prod with an object such a stick or the end of your rifle before moving or touching. You want to be completely sure the game has died. Once you are sure. Only then should you proceed. Now you can touch and admire the beauty of the deer, check the length of its antlers and field dress the carcass. Although you may feel like crying out with joy, be mindful of other possible hunters in the area. You can celebrate as loud as you want as soon as you get back to your vehicle or camp.

I hope this Deer Hunting Tips article was enjoyable and has given some valuable knowledge that you can implement. At the very least it may have gotten you exited about the upcoming big game deer season. Have fun. And good luck on you hunting endeavors.

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18
Jan 12

Forged Kitchen Knives Vs Stamped Kitchen Knives

This article will aid you with the pivotal decision of whether you want forged blades or stamped blades for your kitchen knives. There is a lot of misinformation going around when you’re shopping for a new set of knives and it can be really confusing when all you want to do is slice or dice in style while preparing your food.

The myth all starts with the idea that forged blades are inherently better than stamped blades. The idea behind this is that forged blades steel molecules are aligned better and therefore give them much better cutting properties. The fact is this used to be true, but no longer is due to updated manufacturing processes. In the old days the only way to make steel was to forge it, now days knife manufacturers just go down and buy the steel pre-made.

This is where the pivotal differences between kitchen knives start to form. The forged blades are heated up again pounded into the shape of a knife, and then ground and sharpened. The stamped or machined blades are cut or ground into the shape of a knife, and then heat treated twice to align the steel structure. The first heat treatment starts at 1400-1900 degrees Fahrenheit, leaving the steel brittle but very hard. The second heat treatment hits the blades at 400-700 degrees reducing both the brittleness and the hardness, but in turn making more durable blades.

As you can see the manufacturing processes are just different which leads to different knives. The forged blades tend to be much softer than the stamped or machined blades, because of the lack of high heat treatment. The benefits to this are that it’s much easier to sharpen at home, the knife will have a weightier feel, and you’ll have a bolster. The drawbacks are that it won’t be quite as sharp as a comparable stamped blade, and it won’t hold a comparable edge as long. The Germans who are the primary manufacturers using the forged method rectify this by sharpening to a 22 degree angle instead of a 16 degree used by most stamped manufacturers.

The stamped or machined blade benefits and drawbacks are in reverse of the forged. You’ll have a much lighter knife with no bolster, unless welded on, that’s extremely sharp, and durable. You may also have a harder time sharpening it at home.

In the end it all comes down to you the consumer, and which knife fits you the best. If you’re going to be slicing a lot of heavy vegetables and meats you may find the German forged Wusthof knives to your preference. On the other hand if you do a lot of Asian style cooking the high end stamped Global knives or Shun knives may fit you best.

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12
Jan 12

How I Sharpen My Knives – Urban Survival

How do you sharpen your blades? I use a Lansky Diamond Rod Sharpener. A few passes makes a dull blade sharp again, and it’s easy to use in the field.

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10
Jan 12

Knife Skills 101 with Chef Roger Mooking

Roger Mooking shows Plato Putas how to properly wield a knife in the kitchen. The host of Food Network Canada’s “Everyday Exotic” and co-owner/executive chef of Nyood and Kultura tells us what to look for in a good knife, demonstrates how to use your fingers as a guide and shares more tips to help us sharpen our knife skills. For more on food and the joys of eating, visit www.platoputas.com

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